‘Jammin n’ liming’ in schooners from Tobago Cays to Mustique

The longest we have stayed at anyone place has been in Bequia, I think that alone demonstrates the rather special feeling about the place...but it’s not all a bed of roses: I’ll come back to that later. The island is so small you continually bump into the same people; which actually gives a somewhat comforting feel. Our apartment at the Gingerbread was proving to be an excellent choice as we were right in the thick of the activities; especially over the Easter weekend

Gingerbread hotel and apartments:

Ours is the one on the right...not far to the beach or the bar!

Meeting fellow travellers can sometimes be a humbling experience. One young French couple already have an 18 month old toddler, with another due in a few weeks, are intending to sail a repaired 27’ hurricane wrecked boat..., circumnavigating the world! Another Polish couple have a similar plan in a 30’ yacht and just stop to find work when they run out of money ...now that’s free living; but not for Old Gits!

Easter weekend brought many day-trippers from St.Vincent, ferries stuffed full of weekend revellers.

Easter Ferry...

The quiet town of Port Elizabeth suddenly vibrated to the thumping heavy beat of a sort of modern reggae, FOG did try to enlighten MOG but he just grunted! Stalls were erected all over the town and in grounds of the municipal building and churches. Barb-a-ques, beer tents, coconut vendors, arts and crafts gave the place a Caribbean version of a village fete atmosphere.

Maypole dancing & locals enjoy Easter festival

Alcohol abounded but there was no loutish behaviour and we saw why...

MOG should be careful, mixing his drinks!

As the original plan had been to charter a yacht we did find ourselves with time on our hands. FOG took the opportunity to find a ‘decent’ hairdresser...

Dawn & hair – She should have saved her money... (Opps)

MOG on the other hand went diving an old German tug boat that was sunk in 1996. It sits upright on the seabed and diving down to it is a thrilling experience. Already the boat is encrusted in plants and coral and an abundance of fish...oh for an underwater camera!

Friendship Rose under full sail

You don’t come all this way and not venture out into the Grenadines. The ‘Friendship Rose’ is a 90’ schooner built on Bequia in the 60s.

Skipper eyeing the camera with suspicion

The skipper had built it with his brothers and working such a large boat with no winches required a large crew and all hands on deck...

MOG tries to show them how it’s done!

Way anchor!

Our destination was the marine conservation area of Tobago Cays. These uninhabited cluster of islands is truly something out of a film set, and that is exactly what it has been...the most recent being the ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’.

Boat on the reef at Tobago Cays

We snorkelled with turtles and one particular ‘old fella’, we were told later could have been a hundred years old, just grazed on the sea grass quite oblivious to the ecstatic flapping of tourists floating on the surface above him. We then moved onto the reef itself which is reputed to be one of the top 7 in the world. The wind had started to increase and made snorkelling on the reef quite precarious as we floated very close to stinging corals and large black sea urchins lurked menacingly in crags their spins waiting for a carelessly placed foot or knee.

Lunch on the old schooner was first class and washed down with a cold beer made life seem very pleasant..., this is what ‘liming’ is all about then? However the long sail back tacking into the wind did have FOG eying me with her ‘look’...”you were going to bring me out here in a small yacht.” Maybe it was fortunate we never did manage to charter a yacht; I’m not sure the marriage would have lasted! It took a while before we entered Admiralty Bay with a few sighs of relief from some passengers...

Waves over the bow...

The next day we were on another schooner, ‘Passat’ heading towards Mustique...definitely FOG country. Snorkelling was once again on offer but FOG firmly shook her head: tropical celebrity spotting was the order of the day...

Both the Passat & Friendship Rose travel to Mustique

We were tendered to shore and in true tourist mode we took a local taxi. Our guide turned out to be quite a character with a good sense of humour. Tommy Hillfiger’s house he particularly recommended for rent...a bargain at $125,000 per week! We ventured down to a beach and caught sight of Gerry Hall, ex-husband Mick Jagger and Bryan Adams’ houses.

Mick Jagger’s House on left

It was one of those special moments you rarely experience in life. As we stood in awe of the houses in front of us, Mick and Bryan were engrossed in a ‘jammin’ session. They saw us and hailed us over asking whether we would mind joining them...we were obliging of course; I mean it would be rude not to. Mick particularly loved the OGGY idea...; then a loud horn woke me from my day dream and we clambered back into the taxi...!

Of course we had to stop at the Firefly for a drink; the bar had an incredible view of the bay below. MOG gulped at the prices on the drinks menu and nearly fainted as FOG ordered a champagne cocktail... A sharp look and “If you add up all the beers you drink...” MOG sat back and closed his eyes muttering for a local beer. Unfortunately it seemed the tropical celebrity hunt was not going well, we suspect they retreat back to their houses when the schooners are spotted on the horizon. FOG sighed heavily as she spent most of the trip explaining to MOG who all the celebrities were! He actually thought Shania Twain must have been an American author... We walked down to the infamous Basil’s Bar and FOG sat in anticipation her head swivelling round like an owl...but Mick and company remained firmly entrenched in MOG’s daydream...

After a week we had become accustomed to the Bequia way of life, especially shopping. When the doleful lament of a conch shell sounded early in the morning we all hurried to the fish market for our day’s supply.

Real fresh fish...

The fruit and vegetable market had numerous vendors and despite a huge sign stating customers would not be ‘harassed’ that is exactly what happened. In the process of purchasing vegetables from a quiet lady we were harassed by her neighbouring stallholder; but we held our ground..., our confidence was growing!

A disappointing aspect of this island is the attitude of the vast majority of Bequians. They do not have any concept of service. Examples are too numerous to mention but MOG especially became exasperated when entering a bar to be totally ignored, even when it was empty. The worst part is the resigned shrug of the shoulder as the barman finally shuffles reluctantly over and raises his chin in a questioning manner; no enquiry or pleasantries. MOG did lose his cool with one particular obnoxious barman and when paying asked him if he understood what charisma meant... A blank stare, then that “look”..., I think he finally cottoned onto to sarcasm!

But you just can’t beat the sunsets here...

Yet another sunset!