Old Gits Gap Year: The soothing effect of Bequia...

On the ferry to Bequia the dark cloud of St.Vincent receded into the distance. We chatted to the two British secret service guys we had met at our hotel; they may not be ‘00’ status, but spies none the less. They had some cock’n’ bull story that they were headmasters from the UK working with the West Indian University on modern teaching practises...as if any educational authority would fund two of their top people to go on a jaunt to the Windies...I don’t think so. They did attempt to play the part in the evenings by pretending to prepare lectures; all I can say is, it had better be about the inside of a beer bottle...! We also caught them taking pictures as the quay side...definitely up to no good. (Only joking lads!)

The two 'British spies exchange information while two ladies discuss life on the ferry

When the ferry tugged into the small town of Port Elizabeth you noticed people’s shoulders relax. It was so picturesque that no photograph would do it just, but I’ll try...

I said I’d try...

We were staying at the Frangipani Hotel and once again we found we were rip-off by a local taxi, $15 for 200 yards! We do seem to attract them...;however nothing could dampen our spirits as we entered the cool shade of the bar and reception area; right on the beach where all the ‘yachties’ moored their tenders.

Tenders in the sunset

Shown to our room, slightly elevated on the hillside, we opened the doors onto the veranda and there was the whole of Admiral Bay spread out in front of us. The bay was filling up rapidly in preparation for the Bequia Easter Regatta. Boats from all nations mingled with the locals and their fishing boats...

Submerged fishing boat. At first glance you would imagine this boat is in trouble...not so. It is being submerged to allow the timbers to expand in readiness for the regatta.

The first afternoon and evening on Bequia was, not to put too fine a point on it, magical. Boobies dived into the water all around us fishing for their supper, as we ambled contently into the town.

Frigate Birds, locally known as ‘Boobies’, dive for fish in the harbour.

We sampled a few of the bars before walking back to our hotel along the beach and waterfront. Our two lost friends had returned; no, not the spies, but laughter and smiles. A good meal and a bottle of wine boosted the Old Gits morale and resolve. A healthy discussion on the finances resulted in a few changes which, on reflection, may even enhance the OGGY experience... Some appropriate cost cutting, without killing the ‘spirit’ of OGGY, would accompany MOG having to find a job when we tour and stay in Italy for the summer. (Why just MOG?). We were real Gap Year travellers now...

FOG settling in to Bequia life.

We met many people in the first few days mainly due to the relaxed atmosphere and almost a comradeship between all inhabitants, local or otherwise. Only the larger groups of Americans remained aloof as did the ‘locals’ from St.Vincent. Bequia is a small island and it was surprising how you kept bumping into the same people, normally in the bars. We did experience a small problem in where we were going to stay. The charter boat idea had now totally faded and a lot of apartments were booked over the Easter period. Eating out all the time was starting to become expensive and a little tiring, the service locally is slow to say the least, but eventually we found an apartment in the Gingerbread Hotel with a well equipped kitchen...right on the water front. With our accommodation assured we then booked a day’s sub-aqua diving. Dive Bequia were virtually next door to the hotel and ensconced there was the irresistible Charlie. Although Charlie is over 40 years old he still has quite childish tendencies..., one of them is stealing your pen while you fill in the dive forms...

Charlie... enough said

The two Old Gits however didn’t do themselves justice. Both hyperventilated on the surface before the dive started only to realise the ‘STAB’ jackets were so tight neither of us could breathe! However the two dives were great fun with beautiful coral of all types and a multitude of fish, crustaceans and turtles. Oh, for an underwater camera...!

MOG scrabbles up, and FOG looking more composed

Our second excursion was to rent a car and see the island...which only took a morning! MOG was determined to have his ride in a Mini Moke; his wish was granted..., but in PINK! I had forgotten how bad the old Morris gears had been..., it was akin to stirring porridge!

MOG & Moke...Checking the engine: The 35 year old Morris 850cc engine was true to form and broke down!

The ‘locals’ here are very friendly and we bumped into two brothers, John & David with their wives and some of the brood. John & his wife Jenny live on the island and took pity on us having to eat in restaurants every night(!); we were invited to dinner . When they saw our Mini Moke they insisted on picking us up and thank heavens they did. The house was perched high up on the hillside, with an impressive view of the bay and the drive up would have challenged even the most hardy of 4*4...the Pink mobile would have ended up down a ravine! It was so nice to chat around a dinner table and MOG made a pig of himself with the excellent home cooking. (Yes, I forget my camera again, but not quite the thing to do snapping away in someone’s home!) They had designed themselves and had the main wooden house pre-built in Brazil. All went well as the two containers were offloaded and the wood man-handled up the mountain side, until they discovered the instructions were all in Portuguese!

Typical sunset in Bequia

Over the Easter weekend the amount of boats increased quite startlingly and the buzz of the place was electric...so were the occasional free sponsored bars...hurray for Heineken & Mount Gay Rum.

Frangipani’s beach bar on race night...!

FOG became embroiled in an argument (discussion she says) between a local and the Irish barman..., but it all ended happily!

Eye ball to eyeball...but FOG to the rescue and all ‘friends’